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Post by hypojam on Oct 21, 2005 9:08:13 GMT
Hey there, I used 10w30 last winter and all the time. Now that my kit is broken in I'm switchin to mobil 1 synthetic. The oil instantly gets shot up into the valves when the scooter is started. Of course it's not up to temp yet, but if you have the cover off and try to estart it you'll know what I mean! I took the valve cover off ages ago and turned the engine on just to have a look  Oil squirted all over the place  |
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Post by AdsaM on Oct 21, 2005 9:10:41 GMT
Oki thanks hypojam. I'll brave the rain here and go shopping  |
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Post by chcknugget on Oct 21, 2005 16:23:22 GMT
I took the valve cover off ages ago and turned the engine on just to have a look Oil squirted all over the place Hahaha, there is a permanent oil spot by the bikeracks where I keep my scooter! It seems everywhere I go I leave a mess. I hope to shape up before I buy a house! Castrol Oil is a very good "dino oil". I have used it to break in my original 50cc engine and my 80cc kit. I plan on switching to mobil 1 pure synthetic soon, as soon as I feel like getting off my lazy butt and fixing my scooter in the 40deg weather! |
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Post by Botanic on Oct 21, 2005 20:41:14 GMT
It is not good for the engine to just run cold without doing any work. It is better to ride the scoot on low speed than to let it stand still.
The difference in sound that you hear after the engine has been running for a minute or so, is the automatic choke turning off.
When you start the cold engine, the choke feeds some extra petrol to the carburator. This makes the engine sound a littlebit different.
It doesn't matter if you use synthetic or mineral when breaking in the engine. It is an old myth that breaking in with synthetic is not good. The myth is wrong.
It is not good for the economy though to use synthetic during the breaking in, since you have to change the oil very often.
I would not use a 10w30 on these scooters. Maybe only during the winter. Since the engine is air cooled and not watercooled, the 30 is a littlebit too low in my opinion. I would go with a 40 or a 50.
The second number is the viscosity in a temperature of about 100 Celcius.
Air cooled engines has a tendency to run hotter than water cooled. So it is important that the oil does not get too thin in the hot engine.
The bigger the number the thicker the oil stays in 0 and 100 C.
The second number has no meaning in how fast the oil gets to where it's supposed to be. It is the first number (10w) that is the important number in this case.
But then again the engine warms up quickly, so the difference between 5w and 15w is not that big. Just remember not to speed off to quickly after letting the scooter stand still during the cold night and morning.
There are a lot of stabilizers and different add-ons in oils. Usually if you put it some extra, you will weaken the oil and make it less good.
Especially if you use an expensive full synthetic oil.
These stabilizers used to be good some 20 years ago when engine oils were of a lot more poor quality. Nowdays, you are just wasting your money and probably doing more harm to the oil than good.
Are you sure that the oil in the final drive is 10w-40?
Usually gearbox oils viscosity is labelled differently from the engine oils. This is to minimize confusion between gear and engine oils.
Gearbox oils usually has a viscosity like SAE 80w-90.
Even though the thicknes is pretty much the same between SAE 80w-90 and 10w-40, the oils are made for different purposes.
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Post by chcknugget on Oct 22, 2005 3:42:09 GMT
It is not good for the engine to just run cold without doing any work. It is better to ride the scoot on low speed than to let it stand still. Why is this? At low speeds you are blocking traffic and wearing your clutch. Also, I've read from a few sources that running synthetic during break-in will make the piston rings "too slippery" and may not form the cylinder to make a good seal. Just be careful! |
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Post by hypojam on Oct 22, 2005 9:48:08 GMT
Final Drive Oil  Engine Oil(£5 Each)  |
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Post by Botanic on Oct 22, 2005 13:56:27 GMT
It takes conciderably longer for an engine to reach the right temperature when running idle. Running an engine cold is not good, so you want to take this time down.
Maybe in theory it takes a littlebit longer to break in an engine with synthetic than with mineral. But it is in no way harmful for the engine to use synthetic during the break in.
Hypojam, I am not saying that your "Motorcycle and Scooter gear oil" from Halfords does not work.
It looks very suspicious to me though.
It should not be marked 10w/40. It should be marked something like 80w/90.
Also it doesn't say the API class (GL1 - GL5).
You can use gear oil (and engine oil) for cars in these scooters. It is theoretically better to use oils for cars since they use additives to make fuel consumption and friction even lower.
The wet clutch in some motorcycles don't like these additives. We don't have a wet clutch.
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Post by Scootin on Oct 24, 2005 4:36:28 GMT
I stand corrected #hammer# ;D
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Oil squirted all over the place 
