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Post by Macrofeet on Nov 26, 2005 16:07:22 GMT
My current set up is Less then 50 miles on clock (New bike) Modifications i made while building were - CDI Pink wire cut
- Parts well oiled
- Carb setting altered then restricted after friend went on about invalidating insurance
- Air intake pipe tied
Mods i made after testing - Idle screw altered to stop engine stall
I still have a few problems which are Horn not working Fuel Gauge flicks all over the place but currently my main concern is: POWER LOSS I am getting this when throttle is opened to quickly or open to much, Can get the bike to 35mph+ flat no problem but if i open up to much then i loose power and slow down greatly. i think it likely the power loss is related to the cdi wire being cut. So basically me not wanting to loose power and then get ploughed by a truck, My question is Before i reconnect it and limit myself to 30mph, anyone else have/had this happen and can anything else be done. |
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Post by hypojam on Nov 26, 2005 16:21:04 GMT
That power loss u mention happened to me when i changed my air filter to a freeflow one
when ever i opened the throttle to full the bike would almost die
the way i fixed it was by putting the old air filter back on
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Post by Macrofeet on Nov 27, 2005 17:30:17 GMT
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Post by baotian on Nov 27, 2005 17:36:45 GMT
2 and 1/2 turns off what?
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Post by BillyGreen1973 on Nov 27, 2005 19:26:16 GMT
fuel mixture screw. Fuel mix of Macrofeet's bike was too lean ( not enough fuel in the mix), resetting the mix screw to 2 1/2 turns out from fully in, set things back to normal!
The Horn not working and the fuel gauge flickering may be related.
The fuel gauge usually flickers when the battery is drained, the fact the battery is drained may be stopping your horn from working. It could also be that your horn is faulty, and that drained your battery.
If you could get someone to check your battery voltage, you will be able to see if your battery is naffed up. A voltage reading of anything less than 12v means it's in need of charging.
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Post by baotian on Nov 27, 2005 19:31:21 GMT
ok i might give that a go as i have this loss of power as if its changing gear as i pull away.
the only thing is is that i have to take apart y hole seat to get to this screw
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Post by BillyGreen1973 on Nov 27, 2005 19:33:40 GMT
If you use a long screw driver, you can get to this screw from the side, just below the body panel, It is a little fiddly, but saves stripping the seat etc.
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Post by baotian on Nov 27, 2005 19:55:37 GMT
ok thanks alot
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Post by Gavin on Nov 27, 2005 21:10:51 GMT
ok i might give that a go as i have this loss of power as if its changing gear as i pull away. the only thing is is that i have to take apart y hole seat to get to this screw Taking the seat compartment out is very easy on a Baotian 50, just four 10mm chrome bolts, (two at front low down, and two at back high up) then one chrome screw under the seat hinge. Once these are removed the seat and compartment lift out together. About 5 minutes total. |
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Post by Macrofeet on Nov 28, 2005 0:01:56 GMT
Fuel mixture(Power Loss) Fix Unlock and lift the seat 2 x Silver bolts next to seat catch unscrew these 2 x Silver bolts each side to carb cover plastic hatch unscrew them  4x Metal washers under each silver bolt don't loose lift rubber foot mat at base of seat there is a screw here you should see which one, remove it Should now all lift out  look at side of carb for smallish flat brass screw took me a while to find got different carb layout to hypojam's pic  Once you find it tighten this up so it is hand tight (i counted how many turns it took to tighten it so i could reset if it didn't work) Once it is tight unscrew so that the screwdriver goes round two and a half times Put the seat back on in reverse order it is more difficult to put it back on takes a while to get the holes and groves aligned correctly You are done You may want to repeat this to tweak to the best setting for you "Credit to hypojam for original solution and pictures" |
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Post by Macrofeet on Nov 28, 2005 0:47:20 GMT
The Horn not working and the fuel Gage flickering may be related.
The fuel Gage usually flickers when the battery is drained, the fact the battery is drained may be stopping your horn from working. It could also be that your horn is faulty, and that drained your battery You've worried me now my horn might be draining all my bikes power  lol Will test tomorrow with a multimeter and hopefully find out if its faulty, |
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Post by baotian on Nov 28, 2005 18:29:36 GMT
many thanks for that guide macrofeet, will do this soon, as on the way home today i nearly had to call someone out and everytime i tryed to acelertate, evan gently acelerating my bhike woiuld just stall!!! do you think that its related to the fuel mixture, or to do with not moving the washer down on the pin to allow more fuel to the carb, as i have cut the pink wire and taken out the brass srew so it might need more fuel.  what do you think ti could be? btw when the bikes moving its fine just pulling away it sometimes dose this. |
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Post by baotian on Nov 28, 2005 21:01:16 GMT
ok i have managed to move the washer down the pin to the second to last notch, it has improved a litle but i still nearly stalled when i stopped and then opend the throtle, could it be to do with the thotole opening up to much and flooding the ngine (just a guess) |
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Post by baotian on Nov 29, 2005 18:11:55 GMT
it did it again on the way home today but not as bad? could it just be the idle screw? |
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lol