Post by cantlogin on Aug 24, 2005 20:03:52 GMT
Want to do 55MPH plus downhill, do 40MPH on the flat, and climb better uphill? Here's how...
Mine's a 2005 model, and like most was nuts slow out of the crate... My other bikes a SV1000S, so something had to give... I tuned 50cc bikes in the 70's so was used to making the most of very little. These can go well, and are brilliant value - unbelieveable once sorted. Just need a little work/effort, and you'll be smiling all the way home.
First, realise that its only 50cc. If you expect vast increases, buy a bigger bike. Mine still is fairly leisurely uphill, but never embarrasing. Having said that, you can have respectable transport for not a lot.
Get rid of the standard 'Torch' spark plug. Throw it away. Buy an NGK C7HSA plug, and fit it. Much easier starting/running.
Change the engine oil for quality semi-synthetic 10W40, and the transmision oil (totally seperate from the engine) for semi-synthetic SAE80/90. Less drag, much longer life.
Lift the seat, remove the hatch over the engine. Take off the carb top, remove the passivated (looks like brass) screw under the plastic carb top, which stops the carb CV slide lifting. Throw it away. Forever.
Run your engine in first, otherwise it may be damaged. The standard engine struggles to rev above 4500RPM out of the crate. You will never be happy, and the bike is completely strangled at this engine speed. Change the Variator weights in the transmission. More involved this one, but is the key to making it perform well. Contact Beedspeed (www.beedspeed.com) and order some new weights. You can either fit 16x13mm, 6.5 gramme (6 off), which gives 5800RPM running speed, or 5.7 gramme which gives 6800RPM. You could try even lighter, which gives a higher engine speed, but be aware that you are shortening the engine life, and becoming more dependant on regular servicing/oil changes, in order to keep your bike alive... However, an upside is that the engine is spinning faster, meaning the (engine mounted) cooling fan is cooling more effectively, and so is the dynamo, which charges the battery. You need to dismantle the left side/belt drive, of the transmission to fit these, and make up a locking device (on the opposite side of the engine) to enable removal of the nut. Help is at hand - download the manuals on this site which will help you. Can be done in 30 mins, once you are familiar with the process, or get a local bike shop to do it for you.
While you are at it, remove the plastic moulding under the seat, which reveals the wiring etc. Tighten the leads from the battery at the starter solenoid, and smear silicone grease on the wiring plugs, avoiding breakdowns in Winter.
Forget the cutting of 'pink wires' or messing about with carb throttle needle positions. Not needed on the Jinlun's- not applicable/you will only make matters worse.
These bikes are 95% complete when you buy them; you just need to do the last bit and you are laughing all the way to the bank!!
Good luck; if you want any specific clarification, contact me.
Mine's a 2005 model, and like most was nuts slow out of the crate... My other bikes a SV1000S, so something had to give... I tuned 50cc bikes in the 70's so was used to making the most of very little. These can go well, and are brilliant value - unbelieveable once sorted. Just need a little work/effort, and you'll be smiling all the way home.
First, realise that its only 50cc. If you expect vast increases, buy a bigger bike. Mine still is fairly leisurely uphill, but never embarrasing. Having said that, you can have respectable transport for not a lot.
Get rid of the standard 'Torch' spark plug. Throw it away. Buy an NGK C7HSA plug, and fit it. Much easier starting/running.
Change the engine oil for quality semi-synthetic 10W40, and the transmision oil (totally seperate from the engine) for semi-synthetic SAE80/90. Less drag, much longer life.
Lift the seat, remove the hatch over the engine. Take off the carb top, remove the passivated (looks like brass) screw under the plastic carb top, which stops the carb CV slide lifting. Throw it away. Forever.
Run your engine in first, otherwise it may be damaged. The standard engine struggles to rev above 4500RPM out of the crate. You will never be happy, and the bike is completely strangled at this engine speed. Change the Variator weights in the transmission. More involved this one, but is the key to making it perform well. Contact Beedspeed (www.beedspeed.com) and order some new weights. You can either fit 16x13mm, 6.5 gramme (6 off), which gives 5800RPM running speed, or 5.7 gramme which gives 6800RPM. You could try even lighter, which gives a higher engine speed, but be aware that you are shortening the engine life, and becoming more dependant on regular servicing/oil changes, in order to keep your bike alive... However, an upside is that the engine is spinning faster, meaning the (engine mounted) cooling fan is cooling more effectively, and so is the dynamo, which charges the battery. You need to dismantle the left side/belt drive, of the transmission to fit these, and make up a locking device (on the opposite side of the engine) to enable removal of the nut. Help is at hand - download the manuals on this site which will help you. Can be done in 30 mins, once you are familiar with the process, or get a local bike shop to do it for you.
While you are at it, remove the plastic moulding under the seat, which reveals the wiring etc. Tighten the leads from the battery at the starter solenoid, and smear silicone grease on the wiring plugs, avoiding breakdowns in Winter.
Forget the cutting of 'pink wires' or messing about with carb throttle needle positions. Not needed on the Jinlun's- not applicable/you will only make matters worse.
These bikes are 95% complete when you buy them; you just need to do the last bit and you are laughing all the way to the bank!!
Good luck; if you want any specific clarification, contact me.
), they shows a very useful 'Y' shaped tool, with a pivot in the middle, and lugs/pins on the ends of the top sections. The lugs fit into any spare holes, to hold any rotating piece in place whilst you work on the brute force bit. It looks nice and simple to build one yourself, and would come in useful for many jobs.
Would that work 
Is there anywhere else i could buy them from?