|
Post by cb50j on Jun 19, 2006 17:57:26 GMT
yep
couldn't you trim the gasket?
instant gasket would do(as long as it's the right stuff)
C
|
|
|
Post by robwyatt on Jun 19, 2006 20:02:05 GMT
I have got this what do you reckon? I have got the red one
|
|
|
Post by robwyatt on Jun 19, 2006 20:04:07 GMT
I cant really trim the actual gasket as its solid metal
|
|
|
Post by cb50j on Jun 19, 2006 20:08:20 GMT
dremel type tool, round file?
the red tube looks likely........
make sure whayever you use lists exhaust manifold..........
|
|
|
Post by robwyatt on Jun 20, 2006 0:06:52 GMT
dremmel sounds fun but think I will try the silicone as it does mention exhausts and is good up to 700 degrees.
do you reckon I should leave a 1mm gap?
|
|
|
Post by cb50j on Jun 20, 2006 22:26:35 GMT
can't see it doin any harm
|
|
|
Post by tungy999 on Sept 29, 2006 11:09:04 GMT
i dont think its anything to do with the gasket sounds like a clutch problem or your belt could be slipping
|
|
|
Post by Macrofeet on Sept 29, 2006 12:22:40 GMT
if it was me i'd think about getting a replacement exhaust or at least gasket and screws
try local scrap yard maybe or ebay and scooter assasins
that silicone stuff might work but could also just end up a mess might be worth a go to patch it up for a while tho
|
|
|
Post by enu06 on Sept 29, 2006 13:54:34 GMT
Have you checked your inlet manifold for cracks or leakage?
|
|
|
Post by Simar on Sept 29, 2006 17:53:14 GMT
Setting the valve clearances is quite straight forward, the valves should be set when the engine is cold, and when the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Centre). TDC can be set by turning the fly wheel until the timing marks line up. i.e. the 'T' is aligned with the pointer on the engine case. Then remove the cylinder head cover and ensure the camshaft timing marks are ligned up with the edge of the engine casing (red arrows), with the large hole in the cog away from the engine(yellow arrow) With the timing now set, and the head cover removed you will have access to the tappets (used to adjust the clearances). The tappets are made up of an adjuster and a lock nut. To set the gap we have to loosen the lock nut, set the adjuster using a feeler gauge, and then tighten the lock nut WITHOUT moving the adjuster. The gap should be set to 0.05mm for both inlet and exhaust valves. I have no idea where billy green's post on valve setting has gone so I have re-posted it.
|
|
|
Post by jialing on Sept 30, 2006 0:57:19 GMT
Now 0.05 might sound pretty good to you guys but Im still trying to work in thous of an inch metrification stuffed every thing up. In the old days I used to use the blunt end of a hack saw blade as a feeler guage and it worked for me then and still does today to set the gap on my spark plugs.
|
|
|
Post by Adrian Baugh on Sept 30, 2006 13:51:28 GMT
Call me dumb, but can someone please explain where exactly the gap is supposed to be? Is it between the tappet and the valve? Also, is it supposed to be 0.05 or 0.05mm? (My feeler gauges have both markings).
|
|
|
Post by Simar on Sept 30, 2006 14:51:51 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Macrofeet on Oct 1, 2006 18:01:59 GMT
not sure but i think that might be the imperial markings
anyway its 0.05mm
i set mine to a tight 0.10mm
|
|
|
Post by larry8 on Oct 5, 2006 12:25:04 GMT
I have always set mine to .004" (0.01mm). and they work ok. I thought 0.05mm (.002") would be too tight and give you problems at high rpm's.
|
|
|
Post by larry8 on Oct 5, 2006 12:26:59 GMT
Oops ment (0.10mm)=.004"
|
|
|
Post by Scootin on Oct 5, 2006 14:49:52 GMT
|
|